27 July 2013

Traprain Law

On Wednesday, this rainy week cleared long enough to take a hike up Traprain Law, one of East Lothian's iconic landmarks. This huge volcanic hill has been a settlement to people from the Neolithic Age through to the Iron Age. Although the rain had ceased, the sound of thunder could be heard still rumbling in the distance. However, we decided to carry on our trek up to the hill fort.

In order to begin the hike, we had to hop over this fence. That little flap on the right you could pull up to let dogs through. 



Traprain Law in modern day, has a reputation of being an active site for paranormal and UFO activity. However, this natural land formation has been shrouded in myth and legend for hundreds of years. One of the legends says that King Loth (the Pictish leader from whom Lothian takes its name) resided upon this summit. He had a daughter, who is said to have fallen in love and become pregnant with a local shepherd. When King Loth learned of this situation, he became angry and ordered his daughter to be thrown off Traprain Law. However, she was saved by divine intervention, and was floated to the place now known as Glasgow. She gave birth to a son, who she named Mungo. St. Mungo is now hailed as the founder and patron saint of Scotland's largest city. It is also said that the shepherd exacted his revenge upon Loth, killing him, and burying his body at the base of Traprain law. There are a number of other folk legends surrounding the site, but that is the most famous of them.


When we finally reached the top of Traprain Law, we had an incredible panoramic view of East Lothian. Off in the distance over the foggy coastline, we could see lightning flashing. One another side was an amazing view of the rolling hills and farmlands, blanketed in the rosy glow of the setting sun. The third direction looked towards Edinburgh, who's silhouette could faintly identified in the distance. Then on the final side, to my great delight, there was a herd of wild ponies!

 These Exmoor ponies were herded up Trapain Law in order to graze on the grass to reduce the risk of the area catching fire in the summer months. They were very curious creatures. At one point, I sat down on a boulder at the edge a clearing on top of the hill, a place that used to be a Bronze Age round house. One of the ponies walked up to me, and cautiously sniffed at the sweater I had folded in my arms. Once he sensed I was neither a predator nor a source of food, he gave what I could only interpret as a sign of boredom, and walked away towards the rest of the herd. On his way, he stopped to nuzzle a friend's neck with his long face before rejoining the grazing party.

On the summit, there was the remains of a stone defensive structure. You could also make out the outlines of the Bronze Age roundhouses. The Romans were known for creating angular structures, but I could not really tell if there were structural remains, due to having the eyes of a novice. However, Roman silver has been found buried here - I saw a number of pieces on display in the National Museum. It is amazing to me to think about the different peoples of centuries gone by who made Traprain Law their home. It was the center of their universe. 

 After enjoying the views for a while, the ponies began to prick up their ears and a few began stomping in what seemed like frustration. The thunder began rumbling more loudly. That was our cue to begin our decent down Traprain Law.

1 comment:

  1. I just read a few of your posts and wow... you are packing so many great experiences into your trip I'm so happy for you! Your weekend with Leah sounds amazing, it's so great that it worked out so you could see each other and it looks like you had a fantastic time. The panoramic shots above are just breathtaking! You should really look into getting some of these pictures printed out on canvas, they are just so beautiful, and would be a nice reminder of the trip. My cousin had it done of pictures from Alaska, I could look into the website where he did it if you like. I hope you keep having more amazing experiences!

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